san juan del sur, a surfer's (and my own) paradise

After a few days in Granada, I hopped into a shuttle for a two-hour ride through rural Nicaraguan farmland to the coast.  Final stop: San Juan del Sur, a sleepy fishing village turned surfing party town, with a host of international restaurants, bars, and tanned expats to boot.  Upon arrival, I immediately vowed to never leave.

It's hard to say that one thing was a highlight of my few days there, since really, the whole weekend was a highlight.  But my accommodations, Buena Onda Backpackers (literal and figurative translation: Good Vibes Backpackers), was the cherry top of the cake.  A ten minute uphill walk from town (a nice stroll for me as I love walking thanks to NY, and also weeded out the laziest backpackers), Buena Onda exuded its name in all senses.  Dreamed, designed and built by Baba, the French owner, the guesthouse is made entirely of teak (even my sink pipe was teak!), with views overlooking the town, and enough hammocks to last a lifetime.  The room was a relative splurge for me, but the $22/night were well spent: my king sized bed, private bathroom with aforementioned sink and amazing shower, and everything else about Buena Onda had me declaring to Baba I was going to move in (I think he was a little freaked out).  Can we talk about that kitchen?!

In search of surf, I signed up for lessons as soon as I arrived in town.  A few hours, a windy truck ride, and new friends from the ride later, I was in the water and being pushed from the back for each wave (necessary for this weak-armed novice). Pleased to remember at least some of my skills from previous surf attempts in Hawaii and Orange County, I was able to stand almost every time (no need to share how small the waves were).  After several hours paddling, patiently waiting, standing, and wiping out, we hightailed back on to land and celebrated with a few Tonas while the sun set.  After dinner back in town, I shared rum & cokes with new friends and danced to old & new Enrique Inglesias.  Previous declarations of "never leaving" and "I wonder if I can change my flight" were repeated.  Can you blame me?

The next few days followed the same formula: awaking to ocean views, simple huevos rancheros for breakfast, surfing in the afternoon, Tonas and reggae dancing at sunset, and then more drinking & dancing throughout the night with new friends.  San Juan del Sur, as Enrique so eloquently puts it, "I wanna be contigo, and live contigo, and dance contigo."  Everyone needs a few days (or months, if I had it my way), of Nica's good vibes.