Varanasi

At the end of my six month trip through Southeast Asia, I headed a bit west for three weeks for an introduction to India.  I knew 3 weeks would barely scratch the surface, and while I got a feel for the frenetic, intense, spiritual, colorful country that is India, it only made me want to go back for longer.  Simply put, there's no place like it.  India's an interesting paradox of loud and quiet, crazy and peaceful, holy and dirty, all at the same time.  I flip flopped between loving and hating it, sometimes in a matter of minutes.  It's absolutely exhausting while also being invigorating.  One moment you're on an India high, absorbed in the stunning colors of women's saris while drinking constant cups of chai tea and the most delicious naan ever created; the next moment you find yourself appalled by all the bright colors, loud noises, and constant jitter from the ridiculous amounts of chai consumed, and would offer your right leg for a freaking cheeseburger.  One day you're at the Taj Mahal, admiring one of the human civilization's greatest accomplishments, the next, on a 24 hour train crammed with no air conditioning, privacy, or comfort.  You're always being challenged on several different measures of your abilities, but those who can handle the extremities are rewarded with a peek at an amazing, amazing country.

One city that I visited, Varanasi, completely embodied these paradoxes every moment.  Varanasi is one of the oldest cities in the world, ranking up there with Jerusalem, Damascus, Athens.  The old town, where the most activity occurs, has narrow alleyways for streets, which are inhabited by small street shops, food stands, and many, many cows.  Unfortunately by this point in my trip I was terrified of cows (thanks to an aggressive bull with HUGE horns who charged at me in Jojowar), so walking through the maze of alleys was slightly nerve wrecking for me.  To escape from the overwhelming streets & mass of people and animals, we would sneak up to the many rooftop restaurants and enjoy the sunsets and views from above.

The main reason Indians and tourists visit Varanasi is because of it's status as one of the holiest cities in India.  India is an incredibly spiritual place, and Hinduism plays a role in all facets of life.  Varanasi, situated on the banks of the Ganges River (a very significant river to begin with), is believed to be founded by Lord Shiva, who declared all those whose ashes were spread there would be released from the cycle of reincarnation and thus would go straight to heaven.  As you might imagine, this belief means millions of Indians bring the bodies of their loved ones who have passed away to Varanasi to spread their ashes in the Ganges.  While this itself would make Varanasi an interesting place to visit, there is an additional element that makes it a very unique place for me and other tourists.  Often times Hindu pilgrims bring their loved ones to be cremated in Varanasi, in public cremations at ghats.  Ghats, which are situated on the Ganges, hold large public cremations are a representation of the Hindu concept of divinity represented in physical elements.  Several hotels and travel agencies provide sunrise tours down the Ganges, allowing tourists to watch the cremations from a respectful (I hope at least!) distance.  Ah, India, I miss it so!  What an incredibly interesting country.